The Victorian Heel Connundrum

Turnshoes of the homemade quality.

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Turnshoes are so simple. They are so easy. They require no skills beyond basic sewing, and that's great! I love making turnshoes!

Add a heel and now you're a cobbler. Or are you?

Is it as simple as adding a heel to a turnshoe? Well, there is evidence that this was done, but you really shouldn't.

Without something rigid in the arch, it is like standing on a lego in a ballet shoe. Not nice. The shoe collapses like a bad bridge as the heel heads one way and your toes head another.. The slideshow to the left shows some un-balanced, un-reinforced shoes that appear to be turnshoes with a heel nailed on.

Even today, ballroom dancing will tell you that if your shoe heels get crooked, it is because you weren't on the balls of your feet enough. But I don't think I can tell my customers to just walk tippy-toe to make their shoes last.

Arch support

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Steel shanks were exhibited in 1851, but I doubt they were in widespread use until they were patented in the 1870s. So I'm not sure how some of these shoes hold up their arches.

Some of them have French heels reminiscent of the 18th century styles, which provide arch support. To make these, I need to figure out how to carve two identical heels of very complicated shape. Traditionally they are held on by the fabric covering, rather than nailed on. Then I have to learn the infamous "white seam" where stitches up to 60 per inch were done. These are going to take some time to learn.

Some of them have small wooden heels, well placed and therefore quite contoured with beautiful curves, and also nice high arches. These are the shoes I am interested in. I have a couple theories -- wooden shanks or hardened leather shanks -- but what was their secret?