Before I draft my own pattern for a particular garment, I like to learn using someone else's pattern -- in this case, the shell jacket and the Gala Rock Richmond Depot II pattern.
The pattern leaves much to be desired. The neck was in a weird place; the wrists were too small to get normal size man-hands through. I made about a dozen changes to the pattern just for fit. And my husband is quite standard; all his modern Army 40L uniforms fit perfectly. However, I shifted the neck back, added the L to the 40, widened the cuffs, lowered the armscythe, and generally cut and slashed the pattern to bits.
Once I got a well-fitting base, I made pattern pieces for the cuffs and collar unique to the 1st VA cavalry jacket. Since it's an early war jacket, I went with the modern interpretation of it. In hindsight, I wish I had reproduced the work of this young man's imaginative tailor:
Since I was portraying a tailor-made jacket, I went full-steam ahead with the modifications to improve and flatter the fit. I did ironwork:
And I added padding to the shoulders. Next time I will try padding the chest as well:
I attached the hussar bar braid before I attached the coat to the body, and I was glad I did. I marked it with flour before pinning, which worked well. It was less difficult to brush off than, say, blue chalk.
We'll get better pictures at the next event, but here's a quick cell phone snap:
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